The Kitchen


The yellow cheese is an all-cow’s-milk Tomme, made back in May. It’s very buttery and melty, with a distinctive sharpness that all my Tommes seem to have. The white cheese is a goat cheese that was meant to be (don’t laugh) a Reblochon, but I never washed the rind, or really took care of it in any way, and it turned out to be this lovely, mildly goaty, somewhat meaty tasting cheese. Look at those different colors!








Here is a cheese I am delighted with. I followed the basic recipe for Chaource, but with a couple of changes: I started with cooler milk, and ripened it longer (this was designed for my convenience) and I used goat milk instead of cow, but added a couple of quarts of heavy Jersey cream.

This cheese is two weeks old. It has the lightest, fluffiest texture you can imagine, but it just melts into cream as it warms on your tongue. It’s a little saltier than my previous batches of Chaource, intentionally. It has a clean goaty tang, with lots of buttery creaminess, and a faint mushroominess at the rind. It is impossible to stop eating!

This is from a recipe for French-style Tomme. It’s only 6 weeks old, but my impatience got the better of me, so we opened it last night. It has a very supple paste with mechanical eyes (meaning little holes in the paste caused by spaces between the curds when it was pressed, as opposed to holes caused by the gases produced from certain bacteria). At first I wished it was saltier, but now I’m not sure—it might be perfect. There’s a smoky flavor—not sure where that came from—and just a little of that special washed-rind funk. The rind is edible and pleasant tasting, but detracts a little from the sensuousness of the paste.

This is a raw milk cow cheese.

This is my take on Chaource, a bloomy-rinded semi-lactic cow milk cheese from the Champagne region of France. It is fluffy, melting to creaminess in the mouth; mushroomy and buttery, and this batch was aged (briefly) on Sweet Vernal Grass, so there are strong hay and vanilla notes.

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